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"The Inn Of Tranquillity - The art of Zen reigns supreme in Hepburn Springs"
Inside Melbourne

Some of the last remaining Japanese inns, or ryokan, are found around Kyoto. These are tranquil retreats, where travellers can recharge in traditional surroundings. Hepburn Spring may be a long way from Kyoto but at Shizuka Ryokan guests are treated to the simple, sensual experience of the ryokan, amid the quaint cottages, rambling guest houses and the rolling dales of Victoria's Central Highlands and spa country.

Shizuka means tranquillity, an atmosphere that two husband-and-wife team owners have imbued in the building from the ground up. "We have created a totally  authentic building, just as would be found in Japan, and because of the very minimalist architectur they are very relaxing places with very simple lines, no clutter" says one of the owners, Rosemary Carrick. "There is nothing in Australia like this."

Rosemary and Alison were school friends who coincidentally lived in Japan for several years. Alison is married to Kiyoyuki Eguchi and Rosemary to Marco Piscioneri, who also happen to be the two resident chefs.

Shizuka Ryokan is surrounded by more than three hectares of Japanese garden and native bush. A stepping stone path winds past a lily pond and a wooden bridge leads to the front door of the white, timber-framed main building. Inside, rows of slipper remind guests to remove their shoes before venturing across the Victorian Ash timber floors in the vast lounge and dining area.

And while Rosemary and Alison bought most of the furniture and object d'art in Japan, squashy cream couches drawn up around the fireplace and conventional height dining tables and chairs are concessions to Western comfort. Full-length windows and glass doors overlook the timber deck and the valley beyond. An internal courtyard and sunken garden is near the seven guest rooms.

The guest rooms are devoid of furniture and clutter save for a small, low Japanese table sitting on the tatami mat flooring in the centre of the room. A futon is folded away in a cupboard, concealed by doors painted with a delicate Japanese scene. As in traditional Japanese households, an alcove called the tokonoma, or most spiritual place, holds a scroll and a simple ikebana arrangement, while rice-paper shoji screens slide open to a verandah, called the engawa. "The engawa is a traditional feature of Japanese homes to blur between the inside and the outside, to sit in and observe the garden," says Rosemary. Each guest room has its own tiny walled courtyard garden, where water from a bamboo pipe plays into a water jar.

In the bathroom, Zen simplicity reigns supreme. Stone tiles and handmade wash bowls finished in a cracked or Shino glaze by local potter Tom Cockram are a juxtaposition of texture and tone. A tiny wooden stool in the open shower is for perching on whilst washing, before climbing into the spa bath for a long, luxurious soak.

Shizuka Ryokan offers a European or Japanese breakfast and a Japanese dinner. In-house shiatsu massage is available and there are two-day residential courses in the Japanese tea ceremony, cooking, ikebana and shiatsu massage. With no guest phones or televisions, Shizuka Ryokan (03 5348 2030) is as close to serenity as you can get. "A total retreat" says Rosemary.